The boat came with an unused and not-yet-installed Yanmar 1GM10 Diesel engine, a new installed fuel tank, a relatively new taped aluminum mast (and boom), a somewhat gutted/restored interior, a '95 EZ loader trailer (never dipped in water) and a Howard Renner tender... interestingly, a set of original Northwin sails (now 49 years old!).

She is in magnificent condition although would benefit from a thorough cleaning and new sails. A main and a genoa are included as is the refurbished custon fitted trailer (with a 20 ft. extension built-in), Westerbeke 5 hp inboard that could use some TLC plus attached generator. Recently others have sold for up to $11 K. Note that the boat also comes with the trailer specifically designed for the Heritage and it has been fully restored and reinforced at a cost of more than $1000 last year. Also of note: It is being stored in an enclosed garage and well cared for. The teak woodwork is all original and complete, but some reconditioning would be good. The wood mast is also original and in nice condition. The engine does not run and would need repair, but it is clean and does show signs of life. I have a service assessment done by a mechanic which I can provide. This is the very boat pictured at the top of this page with my grandfather and Howie.You can see a bit of history as to how this Heritage came to my posession as well as a large number of photographs of the interior and exterior of the sailboat here:

On October 17, 2015 Andy Davidhazy suggested:  Agreed. What to do? I tried rimming the hatch top and the inside lip with polyvynil tubing that I had slit lengthwise. This allowed me to slip the tube over the edges for at least 1/2 way around the opening. Seems to help but I don't experience the kind of rain that you mention!

On Sept. 14, 2015 Ray Waldmann replied to Mark's concern as follows: This is not an elegant solution, but it helped.  I had the same problem when I got Ellie, went to Lowes, got some rubber weather stripping with adhesive backing, looped it around the inside of the hatch cover so that it is compressed between the hatch cover and rim around the opening.  One side works fairly well, the other much better, but they both have less water in the compartments than when I bought her.  Ray

On Sept. 15, 2015 Barry Rietz replied to Mark's concern as follows: First let me introduce myself.  My interest in the Heritage 20 sloop goes back 45 years when I first met "Bill Frances" at San Diego.  Bill was the owner of hull #5 if memory serves me correctly.  He became the second owner of that vessel and we enjoyed time together sailing her both locally and down at San Carlos, Sonora, Mexico over many years.  I acquired hull #17 form the original owner in 1982 at San Diego.  After many years of sailing the San Diego area, and living aboard "Minka" for two years, I relocated to Cochise County, Arizona.  There Minka went into storage on a trailer and in a large shed for protection from weather and sun damage.  During the course of my friendship with Bill, and ownership of Minka, I had the opportunity to meet with Howard Renner several times at his Lake Oswego, OR "factory".  I also spoke by telephone to Andrew Davidhazy's father, the designer of the Heritage.  It was a special time for us all as both prideful builders meeting with happy Heritage owners made it as good as it could be!  I miss those days!!!  Just this year I made the tearful decision to sell Minka to someone who I feel could not be a better owner.  "Kenny" will keep Minka as she should be kept and will carry on the tradition of the Heritage.  I remain active in boating and now own a 22 foot "C-Dory" that I cruise summers at Wisconsin.

Now my two cents worth regarding the cockpit drains and seat scuppers.  The cockpit scuppers can and should be increased in diameter by installing larger two inch fittings.  And as "Ray" has indicated earlier in this thread, heavy rain is an issue as well as vessel position in storage.  My suggestion is to install four cockpit drains, one at each corner, and connect them in pairs.  Using a "Y" fitting connect both starboard drains together and port-side likewise.  Since the existing drains are at the waterline, work will need to be performed on the "hard".   With the 2" hose, and the "fore and after" scupper drains, the cockpit should remain dry even in the heaviest of following seas or torrential rain.

The seat drains will require some fiberglass work in order to enlarge the 1/2" drains to at least 3/4".  This project if considered should be well planned before cutting into the deck or hull.  Best that you enlist some knowledgeable assistance in carrying out this modification.

If I can be of help why feel free to write me at the address shown here. Barry Rietz, N9DXC@hotmail.com

On Sept. 16, 2015 Mark Raine replied  as follows:  Thank you for putting my question out  there.  It is interesting to note that a pictures from the boat for sale in Florida has the hinges for the cockpit hatch running athwartship forward of the hatch.  This would allow a more solid  sealing foam tape to run on the outboard  aspect of the hatch. Better  but not great.  I would be interest in another picture and some first hand reports  of how well that works.
    
I am very interested to here the experience with the electric motor you have.  How far and fast can you go?   What size battery bank  does it require?  Could you recharge be solar only? Mark

On Sept. 17 2015 Andy Davidhazy replied to Mark's concern as follows: Hi Mark, I don't have any suggestions on how to deal with drain problems and have limited experience with the Torqeedo having only used it about three time so far. It is the 1003 model. It weighs about 30 pounds and is the equivalent of a 3 HP outboard. It pushed my boat at a maximum speed of about 4 knots in calm waters. It can do this for maybe 40 minutes or so but the time goes up significantly if one cuts down on speed. There is an indicator built into the tiller assembly that tells you how much power is left as well a the range one has at the current power usage level. The tiller also has a built in GPS and it is with that that it determines your speed. It gets activated by an app that you get from the manufacturer. I have not followed through on that.

The battery pack comes with the motor and is removable and I take it home to recharge overnight. The tiller is removable also and I take it with me along with battery. The motor is obviously very quiet.

The battery can be also charged from a solar panel or from a regular marine battery or bank of batteries. They sell these accessory options or one can make oneself if one knows how. I don't so am sticking with home charging. BTW, you can charge as you go along as well but if solar I don't think you can charge fast enough to offset the drain of the running motor. Obvious. Andy

To which Mark replied on the 19th as follows: That sounds like a perfect solution for getting in and out of the harbor.  After that of course you will have to be a real sailor.   A lot of "trips" in SE  Alaska require longer distance motoring say 15miles/day. Plenty of sailing but motoring for sure up fjord like passageways that seldom have wind.  Electric probably not a good option for me.  But interesting non the less.  Another fellow I talked to had considered putting a huge battery bank into his 35ft sailboat with the idea that it was rechargable with solar.  renewable resource and all that.
 
I saw your note about raising the mast which I did for the first time this Spring.  Once I get it in the tabernacle it is simple to do. I have a fitting at the forward base of the mast that accepts the boom and then a gut (??) setup attached  more or less permanently to the chain plates.  the I use a 4:1 tackle to raise and lower.  Moving the mast after it is horizontal takes time and a couple separate "A" frame supports.  I'll work out a "system" to do it alone but often times easier and safer to just get a bunch a friends and/ or neighbors to lift it on and off the boat.